A sculptural, voluminous dress from Han Kjobenhavn's SS25 collection, blending raw textured material with a daring plunging neckline. The look epitomises the collection's contrast of proportions and urban-inspired aesthetic, set against the gritty industrial backdrop of Refshaleøen.

A CRITICAL LOOK AT HAN KJØBENHAVN SS25

Han Kjøbenhavn’s SS25 collection, showcased in an industrial outdoor setting, presented a bold and unapologetic vision. The collection’s distinct focus on sculptural forms and exaggerated silhouettes made an immediate impact. Yet, beneath the surface of theatricality and artistry, one is left questioning whether the brand is progressing or treading water within its established aesthetic framework.

THE SETTING: A STARK CONTRAST

The choice of a barren industrial setting emphasised the brand’s raw and minimalist identity, aligning with the brutalist aesthetic often associated with Han Kjøbenhavn. However, the stark simplicity of the location sparked questions: Did it serve to enhance the avant-garde nature of the designs, or did it instead expose a lack of a unifying narrative within the collection? While visually impactful, the setting seemed to create a disconnect between concept and execution. Did the collection fully capitalise on the potential of its surroundings?

DESIGNS: PUSHING LIMITS OR REDUNDANT?

The SS25 collection was a study in extremes, with oversized, almost architectural shirts, jackets and figure-hugging dresses adorned with subtle motifs such as “Citizen of Denmark.” These designs embodied the brand’s ethos of creating wearable art, but not all pieces felt equally resolved. For instance, a floor-length gown with its sleek silhouette and sculptural neckline made a dramatic impression yet seemed impractical for everyday wear, raising questions about its commercial viability.

Other pieces, like the distressed denim ensembles and tailored coats, successfully bridged the gap between wearability and artistic expression. Yet, a sense of repetitiveness emerged, with recurring motifs and silhouettes that echoed previous collections. While Han Kjøbenhavn’s dedication to its brutalist identity is admirable, the lack of significant evolution risks diminishing its relevance in an industry driven by constant reinvention.

DIVERSITY AND REPRESENTATION: PROGRESS WITH GAPS

The diverse casting of models in terms of ethnicity deserves commendation, reflecting a broader commitment to inclusivity. However, the absence of older models or a wider range of body types felt like a missed opportunity. Given the collection’s emphasis on identity and belonging, broader representation could have strengthened the show’s message and made it resonate more deeply with a diverse audience.

THE BRAND’S EVOLUTION: STAGNATION OR REFINEMENT?

Han Kjøbenhavn has always excelled at creating a distinct visual language, and the SS25 collection reaffirmed its position as a brand unafraid to challenge conventions. Yet, compared to the conceptual clarity of previous seasons like SS23 and AW24, this collection felt somewhat fragmented. The tension between art and functionality—a hallmark of the brand—seemed to tip too heavily towards the former, potentially alienating a segment of its audience seeking wearable designs.

COMMERCIAL VIABILITY: THE REAL TEST

A lingering concern is whether these designs can translate into commercial success. While standout pieces like the minimalist black shirt with chest pockets paired with knee-length shorts layered over leggings and distressed denim jackets offer potential, the more theatrical garments risk being confined to editorial features and museum displays. As fashion increasingly grapples with sustainability and practicality, Han Kjøbenhavn’s focus on conceptual artistry may need recalibration to balance creativity with market demands.

*Black shirt with chest pockets paired with knee-length shorts layered over leggings and sculptural padded boots for a futuristic touch.*

CONCLUSION: A BRAND AT A CROSSROADS

Han Kjøbenhavn’s SS25 collection was undeniably impactful, showcasing the brand’s unwavering commitment to its brutalist aesthetic. However, the show also highlighted areas where the brand could evolve. The balance between art and wearability, inclusivity and exclusivity, and innovation and repetition will be crucial as the brand moves forward. The question remains: can Han Kjøbenhavn refine its vision to stay relevant in an ever-changing industry, or will its focus on avant-garde artistry limit its broader appeal?

A CAUTIONARY PARALLEL

While Han Kjøbenhavn continues to make waves in the fashion world with its bold aesthetic and artistic approach, one cannot ignore the precarious line it treads between avant-garde expression and commercial viability. The story of Barbara I Gongini, a brand renowned for its dark, sculptural designs but which faced significant financial challenges despite its critical acclaim, serves as a sobering reminder of the fragility of niche fashion brands. Without a careful balance between artistic innovation and a sustainable business model, even the most visionary labels risk fading into obscurity. As Han Kjøbenhavn moves forward, it must navigate this balance carefully to ensure that its uncompromising vision does not come at the expense of long-term success.

Photography and text by Max