ROTATE BIRGER CHRISTENSEN
The finale of Rotate Birger Christensen’s AW2025 show, held on 30 January 2025, featured a display of contrasts. The leading model wore a voluminous black faux-fur mini dress, paired with grey socks and glossy Mary Jane heels, an unexpected twist against the sleek styling of the other looks. Behind her, models showcased structured tailoring, draped silhouettes, and layered designs, highlighting the brand’s evolving balance between bold statements and refined aesthetics. The dimly lit runway and engaged audience enhanced the show’s immersive atmosphere.
ROTATE BIRGER CHRISTENSEN: FROM FUR TO FASHION PHENOMENON
Text and photos by Max
The Danish fashion brand Rotate Birger Christensen has rapidly evolved into a household name, known for its bold, party-ready silhouettes and contemporary approach to femininity. Founded in 2018 by Danish influencers and designers Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars, Rotate was born out of a collaboration with the historic fashion house Birger Christensen. The brand's journey reflects not only a shift in consumer trends but also the strategic transformation of its parent company, which moved away from its roots in luxury fur and high-end designer retail.
Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars take their final walk at the end of Rotate Birger Christensen’s debut show for Spring/Summer 2019, held in an elegant historic apartment at Amaliegade 16 in Copenhagen on 8 August 2018. The duo, who launched the brand in collaboration with Birger Christensen, presented their first collection in an intimate setting, reflecting their vision of bold, statement-driven womenswear. Madsen wears a flowing off-the-shoulder floral dress, while Valdimars dons a structured mini dress in a striking yellow-and-black check pattern—both embodying the playful yet refined aesthetic that would come to define Rotate.
THE LEGACY OF BIRGER CHRISTENSEN
Established in 1869, Birger Christensen was once synonymous with luxury fur in Scandinavia. The store on Strøget in central Copenhagen was a landmark, attracting affluent customers seeking premium outerwear and exclusive European designer brands, including Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. However, as global attitudes toward fur shifted and ethical fashion became a growing concern, Birger Christensen faced a critical decision: adapt or risk obsolescence.
The move away from fur was both an ethical and a business decision. The increasing pressure from activists, changing legislation, and a new generation of consumers less interested in fur contributed to the decline of its traditional market. At the same time, the retail landscape in Copenhagen was changing. International luxury brands such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Saint Laurent began opening their own flagship stores in the Danish capital, reducing the demand for multi-brand retailers like Birger Christensen. In response, the company began shifting its focus in the early 2010s, eventually leading to the creation of Rotate in 2018.
Since 1869, the Birger Christensen store has been located at Østergade 38 in Copenhagen, but times have changed, says owner Jens Birger Christensen, who will now discontinue all fur sales and instead focus on his two in-house brands, Remain and Rotate.
THE RISE OF ROTATE
Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimars brought a fresh, trend-driven vision to the table. Both had extensive experience in fashion, with Madsen working as a stylist and fashion editor at Costume magazine, and Valdimars having a background in fashion design and styling. Their expertise helped shape Rotate’s identity, blending editorial aesthetics with wearable designs.
Drawing on their experience, they designed Rotate to fill a gap in the market for high-glamour, 1980s-inspired dresses at a contemporary price point. Their debut collection for Spring/Summer 2019 made an immediate impact with its vibrant colours, exaggerated silhouettes, and unapologetically feminine aesthetic. The Autumn/Winter 2019 collection built on this success, reinforcing Rotate’s identity as a brand that embraces playful, statement-making pieces.
Since its inception, Rotate has maintained a strong presence on the international fashion stage. Its collections are shown at Copenhagen Fashion Week and stocked by major retailers such as Net-a-Porter and Browns. Its pieces frequently sell out, and certain dresses, such as the high-necked mini dresses that became Instagram staples, achieve cult status. The brand’s latest show for Autumn/Winter 2025 showcased its continued evolution, presenting a mix of bold tailoring and signature party dresses while reflecting a broader stylistic direction. Industry insiders noted the collection’s balance between structure and playfulness, highlighting Rotate’s expanding design approach.
Images from Rotate Birger Christensen’s Spring/Summer 2019 show, held in a historic apartment in Copenhagen. The collection featured bold silhouettes, structured tailoring, and signature party-ready designs, marking the brand’s debut on the fashion scene.
SUSTAINABILITY AND DIVERSITY
In response to increasing demand for sustainability in fashion, Rotate has taken steps toward incorporating more conscious materials. Recent collections have included recycled polyester and organic cotton, and the brand has also experimented with sustainable viscose alternatives. Additionally, Rotate has worked on improving production transparency by collaborating with suppliers that adhere to responsible manufacturing practices.
Diversity in representation has also been a growing focus for Rotate, with recent campaigns showcasing a broader range of body types and styles. While still rooted in its partywear DNA, the brand has begun exploring ways to make its designs more versatile and long-lasting.
Rotate Birger Christensen’s AW2025 show showcased models of diverse ethnicities and body types, reflecting the brand's commitment to inclusivity. However, it's essential that such representation extends beyond the runway to avoid mere diversity washing.
A CRITICAL PERSPECTIVE
While Rotate has been widely praised for its design sensibility and business acumen, its reliance on influencer culture and fast-paced trend cycles raises questions about long-term sustainability. Some critics argue that the brand’s success is heavily tied to social media hype rather than a unique, enduring aesthetic.
However, the influencer-driven model has also been a significant advantage, allowing Rotate to reach a younger, global audience and gain rapid brand recognition. Many of its most iconic pieces have gained significant traction on Instagram, leading to strong demand among trend-conscious consumers. The challenge ahead will be to balance short-term virality with long-term brand identity.
Furthermore, as discussions about overproduction and waste within the fashion industry gain traction, Rotate’s model, based on high turnover and frequent collections, may face increasing scrutiny. Expanding its sustainable initiatives and focusing on timeless rather than purely trend-based designs could help solidify its place in the evolving fashion landscape.
INDUSTRY CONTEXT
Rotate’s rapid rise draws parallels to other contemporary brands navigating the modern fashion landscape. Danish label Ganni, for instance, has also mastered the balance between trend-driven styles and sustainability, whereas international brands like Reformation have built their reputations on eco-conscious production methods. What sets Rotate apart is its unapologetic embrace of statement eveningwear, a niche that continues to thrive in the age of social media.
CONCLUSION
Rotate Birger Christensen is a compelling case study in how heritage brands can reinvent themselves for a new era. By shifting from luxury fur to influencer-led contemporary fashion, Birger Christensen has not only stayed relevant but has also shaped the current Danish fashion scene. Whether Rotate will sustain its momentum in the long term remains to be seen, but for now, it continues to be a key player in defining modern Scandinavian style. Its ability to balance its fast-paced, trend-driven model with sustainability and long-term brand identity will determine its future success.
Marlina wearing Rotate in Greece
Rotate Birger Christensen’s Autumn/Winter 2019 show took place in a former Chinese restaurant on Strøget in Copenhagen, providing an unexpected backdrop for the collection. The show featured the brand’s signature party dresses in high-shine fabrics, exaggerated silhouettes, and vibrant colours, reinforcing its playful yet sophisticated identity. The intimate setting, with models walking through the ornate red and gold interior, created a notable contrast to the contemporary designs. Among the guests was then-Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, now Queen Mary, adding further attention to the event.
